Introduction to Arran, Janice and Murray, and the 5 Ferries

Janice and I first met when we took part in a Bangkok to Singapore ride in January 2013.  We all got to know each other very well over the 14 days and 1250 miles, and hoped we would meet up again. Janice talked about her home island of Arran in Scotland, and  mentioned the 5 Ferries cycle, which I thought sounded really interesting and fun.  In  August 2013, I had the opportunity to visit Scotland, to meet up with Janice again, and to meet Janice's husband, Murray. We did the 5 Ferries, and also cycled round their lovely island. I had such a wonderful welcome and we shared our passion for cycling.  Another thing we also had in common is that we were used to cycling up hills regularly, me in Hong Kong and Janice of course on Arran.

I hope you enjoy reading about my visit to this lovely part of the world.

Janice and Murray at the top of the String, on Arran

The 5 Ferries route

The 5 Ferries is a cycle ride starting in Brodick on the Isle of Arran and using 5 ferries to do a clockwise circular tour of the Kyles of Bute, and the Firth of Clyde. It works well starting in Brodick because the ferry schedules enable you to complete the 74 miles (118 Kms) of cycling in one day. 

Total Distance travelled : 100 miles

All the ferries are operated by Caledonian MacBrayne, whose ships seem omnipresent in the Western Isles of Scotland.  Having also done  a lot of sailing in the Western Isles over the last few years, I have seen so many different types of CalMac ferry, with their smart blue and white hulls, and distinct red funnels.  There are 29 in the fleet, and I have enjoyed coming across new ones as I have sailed and cycled in the area.   

There is a schoolboy saying (I read):

"The Lord owns the earth
In all it contains
except the Western Isles
and that is MacBraynes"

The route and schedule we followed:
Cycle 1: Brodick to Lochranza (Isle of Arran) - 15 miles/24Kms
Ferry 1: 08:15 Lochranza to Claonig (across Kilbrannan Sound) "Loch Tarbert"
Cycle 2:  Claonig to Tarbert (on the Mull of Kintyre) - 11.5 miles/18 Kms
Ferry 2: 10:15 Tarbert to Portavadie (across Loch Fyne) "Isle of Cumbrae"
Cycle 3: Portavadie to Colintraive (on the Cowal Peninsula) 19.15 miles/31 Kms
Ferry 3: 13:00 Colintraive to Rhubodach (across the Kyles of Bute) "Loch Dunvegan"
Cycle 4: Rhubodach to Rothesay 8.5 miles/14 Kms (on the Isle of Bute)
Ferry 4: 14:00 Rothesay to Weymss Bay (across the Firth of Clyde) "MV Bute"
Cycle 5: Weymss Bay to Ardrossan 19 miles / 30 Kms along the Ayrshire coast; 
Ferry 5: 18:00 Ardrossan to Brodick (across the Firth of Clyde) "Caledonian Isles"

Leg 1: Brodick to Lochranza (on Isle of Arran)

For Leg 1 we set of at 6.45 from Janice's home in Brodick, headed through the village and on the road round the north side of Brodick bay. It was quite flat for the first 8 miles, then we climbed the Corrie Hill, before hitting the big climb called the Bogaille.   For over 2 miles the road climbed 500 feet through desolate open moorland, before giving us a nice 3 miles descent into Lochranza.    

LEG 1: Brodick to Lochranza: 15.5 miles (25 Kms); 1 hour 6 minutes moving time; 14.1 mph (22.6 Km/h); Total ascent 700ft/216m

06:45 Leaving Brodick for the 5 Ferries tour guided by Janice, passing the Old Post Office where Janice
was the Postmistress. Goatfell in the distance is the highest point on Arran (2866ft/ 873m)

Going up and over the Bogaille (pronounced Bogally) - 200m/650ft high

Arrive Lochranza 

0815 Ferry 1: Lochranza to Claonig

Ferry 1

Leg 2: 08:48 Claonig to Tarbert (on Mull of Kintyre)

Leg 2: A short ride of just 11 miles.  A 450 ft climb over the first 3 miles to greet us off the ferry, then down again to the half way point. There we joined the main road that runs all the way the length of the Mull of Kintyre from Campbeltown in the south to Lochgilphead in the north.  We arrived in Tarbert in good time, and had a coffee on the Quayside before boarding the ferry.

Leg 2: on the Mull of Kintyre from Claonig to Tarbert 11.4 miles (18.4 Kms); 56 minutes moving time; Average speed 12.2 miles per hour (20 km/h); Vertical Climb 656 feet (200m) nearly all in the first 3 miles

Ferry 1 arrived at Claonig; Arran across the water

Whoops - didn't photograph anything in between! too busy with that climb….so hey presto……here we are at the

End of Leg 2: Tarbert

Ferry 2 leaving Tarbert

Ferry 2 - plenty of space

Leg 3: Portavadie to Colintraive (on Cowal Peninsula)

Leg 3 was our longest leg at 19 miles.  It was probably the most varied countryside as we passed through lovely lush meadows and forested areas, then dropped down to the sea at Tighnabruaich, then a stiff 4 mile climb up to a great vantage point where the Kyles of Butes were spread out before us. We then had to divert north to go round the top of Loch Riddon before heading south again over a smaller hill to Colintraive.

Leg 3: on the Cowal Peninsula from Portavadie to Colintraive 19.2 miles (31 Kms); 1 hour 34 minutes moving time;  Average speed 12.2 miles per hour (19.5 km/h); Vertical Climb 1604 feet (493m)

Arrived at Portavadie after crossing Loch Fyne….and the sun has come out; look at the blue sky!

Between Portavadie and Tighnabruaich

Lovely quiet roads bordered by fields, forest and gorse bushes

Resting at Tighnabruaich in the sunshine

Lovely sunny Tighnabruaich, by the Kyles of Bute

View of the Kyles of Bute from the top of the 4 mile climb; with Isle of Bute on the right, and the middle part of the Cowal Peninsula on the left; our next ferry crossing is in the narrow channel in between

The hardy Scot - sleeveless!

The Asian expat - keep those sleeves on! But how the weather changes - it was blue sky an hour ago

Ferry 3: 13:00 Colintraive (Cowal Pensinsula) to Rhubodach (on Isle of Bute); quite a big ferry for a 3 minute journey, or was it 5?

Leg 4: Rhubodach to Rothesay (on the Isle of Bute)

Leg 4: the shortest and flattest leg of the ride. Flat really. Following the sea all the way along the east side of the Isle of Bute. I seem to remember though that there was a bit of a headwind so this slowed us down.  

Leg 4: on the Isle of Bute from Rhubodach to Rothesay 8.4 miles (13.4 Kms); 37 minutes moving time Average speed 13.7 miles per hour (22 Km/h); Vertical Climb 171 feet (52m)

Janice blasts it down the Kyles of Bute

The only 'hill' on this very flat section - deserted roads -
where is everybody?

Our ship awaits us as we approach the town of Rothesay

The Motor Vessel (MV) Bute - a bit of a brute 

Ferry 4: 14:00 Rothesay (Isle of Bute) to Weymss Bay (in Ayrshire on Scottish mainland)

Leg 5: Weymss Bay to Ardrossan (Ayrshire Coast)

Leg 5 took us down the Ayrshire Coast through Largs.  Flat except for a couple of small hills.  It is a main road so not so relaxing although it wasn't too busy.

Leg 5: on the Ayrshire Coast from Weymss Bay to Ardrossan 19 miles (30 Kms); 1 hour 17 minutes moving time; Average speed 14.8 miles per hour (24km/h); Vertical Climb 394 feet (121m)

Nardini's Ice Cream Parlour in Largs, Art Deco style, first opened in 1935

View of Arran from Ardrossan - nearly home

Ferry 5: 18:00 Ardrossan back to Brodick - Job done

Arriving in Arran - Goatsfell visible